The Authentic Mexican Mole: More Than Just Chocolate

Forget what you think you know about Mexico’s national dish. It’s not the taco, and it’s definitely not those salty, fast-food monstrosities from Chipotle. The real crown belongs to mole, a sophisticated, soul-warming sauce that is far more refined and flavorful than its reputation suggests. While many guess the name comes from the Spanish word moler (to grind), it actually traces back to the Nahuatl word molli, meaning a “sauce” or “mixture.” Most diners in the U.S. have never experienced an honest-to-goodness Mexican mole, as many restaurants settle for cookie-cutter shortcuts. An authentic version is a labor of love, delivering a complex profile that is simultaneously sweet, nutty, roasted, and just a hint of bitter.

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Estimated reading time: 20 minutes. In a hurry? You can skip to the key takeaways at the bottom of the post, or view the FAQ section for quick answers to your questions about the Mexican mole.

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More Than Just Chocolate: Discovering the Rich History of Southern Mexican Mole

The mole comes from the southern region of Mexico, where there is heavy Amerindian influence and chocolate is used in both sweet and savory dishes. However, the frequent translation of mole to mean “chocolate sauce” is incorrect, as only a small percentage of moles use chocolate.

Think of the southern region of Mexico as the high-tech lab of the ancient culinary world. This area, heavily shaped by Amerindian influence, is where the magic of the Mexican mole truly began. While we often associate chocolate with dessert, the indigenous cultures here have used it in both sweet and savory ways for centuries. However, it’s a total myth that every Mexican mole is just a “chocolate sauce” in disguise. In reality, only a tiny fraction of the hundreds of varieties actually call for chocolate.

The real story starts with the word molli, a Nahuatl term from the Aztec language that simply means “sauce” or “mixture”. Even though the Mexican mole has deep pre-Columbian roots, the version we eat today is a mestizo creation, a mashup of indigenous techniques and ingredients brought over by the Spanish. Interestingly, it’s highly unlikely the Aztecs were putting chocolate in their savory stews back then. That savory-sweet experimentation didn’t really kick off until the seventeenth century, long after the Spanish conquest.

Today, the Mexican mole is more than just a recipe; it’s a cultural icon. It’s the “national dish” because the sauce itself is the star of the show. Whether it’s served at a birthday bash or as a sacred offering during the Days of the Dead, it represents a labor of love that can involve roasting and grinding up to 100 different ingredients to reach that perfect, velvety balance.

See also When Was the First Use of Chocolate?

Mexican Mole Ingredients

A Mexican mole typically contains a mixture of chiles, nuts, seeds, and vegetables. They sometimes include unsweetened chocolate, tomatoes, and raisins. Avocado leaves, epazote, and various spices might be used.

Many, including the most famous Mole Poblano or Poblano de guajolote, from Puebla, said to be the first, contain chocolate. Being so well known, this may account for the mole being thought of as a chocolate sauce.

🌮 Master the Mexican Kitchen

From understanding the difference between molli and masa to mastering the many varieties of dried chiles, navigating authentic recipes is easier when you speak the language.

Check out our Essential Mexican Food Glossary to decode the terms behind your favorite dishes.

Mole Poblano or Poblano de Guajolote

Rich, brown, and commonly served with turkey, there are several stories of how this mole was invented. Some say it originated with a Dominican nun, Sor Andrea de la Asunción, who was preparing a guiso of puréed roasted chile, cinnamon, pepper, cilantro, sesame seeds and turkey broth and decided to add some chocolate, which, according to her, sent the dish through the roof with an indescribable flavor.

Another story has it that a guy named Fray Pascual discovered it when he accidentally dropped an entire tray of spices into his pot. Some different and more flowery mole versions are given here.

None of them is likely and the mole probably developed over a long period dating back to pre-Hispanic times and then incorporating Spanish ingredients making it a true mestizo dish.

How are Moles Served?

The mole is used either as a base to build a stew or as a sauce to be poured over meat or poultry, but unlike most sauces, the point of the mole is the mole itself. Anything served with it is secondary! This is why I called it a national dish, even though a sauce is not usually considered a dish in its own right. The mole is an exception to that rule.

Moles are typically served on festive occasions, such as fandangos and birthdays. During the days of the dead in November, mole is the food offering made to the ancestors.

Each region has its own variation, some of which are simple and some of which are highly complex with up to 100 ingredients. Families, of course, pass down their own recipes, so there are probably as many moles as there are Mexican cooks. The sauces are served with poultry, meat, vegetables, seafood, you name it.

Equipment For Making a Mexican Mole

Although a molcajete, a type of Mexican mortar and pestle, is usually used to grind all the ingredients together to form a paste, you can get away with using an electric blender as long as you’re not being watched by a serious Mexican mole maker. The results are not exactly the same, as there is a difference between chopping the ingredients into fine bits with a whirring blade and carefully mashing and grinding them to a velvety pulp. However, a blender mole is pretty darn awesome and a whole lot easier.

The Mexican Mole is Not a Quick Sauce!

A true Mexican mole has tons of ingredients and takes tons of cooking time. It’s not a béchamel, by any means. All the various chiles, nuts, seeds, and virtually everything, is slow roasted first to bring out the flavor.

If you cannot get to Mexico to try one (hopefully not from a tourist restaurant) and, as is likely, you can’t get one at a restaurant at home, do not try one of the concentrated paste mixes that are available. In my opinion, the results are not good. These usually, for instance, contain cocoa powder instead of chocolate, which to me, adds too much bitterness. You’ll have no way of knowing what is in them as most of the spices will be listed as “natural flavors.’

A good mole is only slightly bitter, moles from mixes are likely to be very bitter. You will be left with a very bad idea as to what a mole is, and likely a bitter taste in your mouth. People in Mexico take it very seriously and will go out of their way to shop the perfect ingredients, even if it takes all day.

The Seven (or Eight) Moles of Oaxaca

The town of Puebla is usually given as the “birthplace” of the first Mexican mole but Oaxaca, from which many moles originate, claims to be the home of the seven moles, being the place from which all other moles came.

The problem is, nobody seems to be able to agree as to exactly which seven are the famous seven. Below are the eight contenders. Keep in mind that there are many versions of each of these, as well as additional ingredients or substitutions.

Moles can rarely be pinned down perfectly, but there are some basic distinctions between them. Basically, there are two brick-colored red ones, one black, one yellow, one green, one dark and gravy-ish, and one fruity mild red.

• Mole Negro: Known as the “king of moles,” this sauce is legendary for its spicy, rich, and dark profile. It achieves its signature depth through chocolate, blackened chile seeds, and a specific blend of warm spices—most notably Mexican cinnamon. This version typically features the chilhuacle negro, mulato, and pasilla chiles.
• Mole Rojo: A deep red, slightly spicy sauce that uses similar ingredients to the black version but skips the blackened seeds for a brighter, more brick-red profile. Also, the red chilhuacle chile, rather than the black or “negro” as given above, is often used in Oaxaca. Sometimes quajillo chiles and/or peanuts are added. It is sometimes called mole colorado. Colorado means “reddish” in Spanish and is a way of saying that something is sort of red, like many of the canyons and cliffs of the state of Colorado.
• Mole Coloradito: Known as the “little red mole,” this mellower cousin is often sweetened with raisins and thickened with fried bread. It features a base of ancho and guajillo chiles and always includes nuts, raisins, and Mexican cinnamon (canela). While it is sometimes confused with mole rojo, its distinct use of floral canela gives it a unique, aromatic warmth that sets it apart from other red moles.
• Mole Verde: A fresh, vibrant green sauce that ditches the dried chiles for jalapeños, tomatillos, and a handful of fresh herbs like epazote and cilantro. It is sometimes thickened with masa (Mexican corn meal). In Puebla, a green mole with tomatillos would probably called a pipián verde.
• Mole Amarillo: Despite the name, this “yellow mole” is usually a fiery orange; it’s more of a spicy, soupy stew served with chunks of vegetables and meat. It uses the chilhuacle chile, the chilcosle, or the guajillo and de arbol. Tomatillos are usually used, along with cloves and cumin.
• Mole Mancha Manteles: Appropriately named the “tablecloth stainer,” this fruity, deep red sauce is a sweet-and-savory mix of chiles, pineapple, yams and plantains. It is often served like a stew with chicken or pork but can be used as an accompanying sauce.
• Mole Chichilo: A dark, gravy-like sauce with a unique, smoky depth from roasted chiles and avocado leaves. It is similar to mole rojo and colaradito but the chiles are roasted very dark and blackened seeds may be included. Also, avocado leaves are included.
• Mole de Almendra: Red Mole with Almonds. A luxurious almond-based red mole that relies on blanched almonds and cloves for a smooth, nutty finish. Often made with only ancho chiles, the dried version of poblanos. Or with both poblanos and anchos, which is unusual since usually fresh and dried chiles are used separately in Mexico. Usually, when they are used together, the fresh and dried version of the same chile is used. Besides almonds, cloves are used in mole de almendra. This sauce can be served over roast pork or chicken.

The “True” Cinnamon Secret

Did you know that authentic Mole Negro relies on the delicate, floral notes of Canela? Unlike the hard, spicy Cassia found in most U.S. cupboards, Mexican cinnamon provides a subtle warmth that won’t overpower the complex chilies.

Learn why it’s the superior choice for savory Mexican dishes.

The recipe below is a mole amarillo stew with vegetables and chicken adapted from a recipe from Nancy Zaslavsky. Very simple, compared to many mole recipes, and a great introduction to real Mexican food that is not the typical Tex-Mex that we get in restaurants.

Nopales, the cactus paddles that are used in Mexico, could be used in this stew but they may be hard to find and difficult to work with. I’ve substituted okra, which I love, but you may not, because of its mucilaginous texture, similar to the cactus. You can substitute green beans, or just forget the ingredient altogether. As well, substitute and experiment at will. The mole sauce is the point, you choose the vegetables.

You may be wondering about the tarragon. This is a substitute for the Mexican hoja santa leaves, or the avocado leaves, which would normally be used in Mexico. You will probably not be able to find either and even if you were to get a hold of some avocado leaves, they would likely be worthless as only the avocado that grows in Mexico has aromatic leaves.

Fennel has an anise-like flavor and it is often recommended as a substitute, but I think tarragon fills the bill here as it has a bit more of a peppery flavor and is in the licorice family, so also has the anise-like property.

A little tarragon goes a long way so don’t be tempted to think more is better. A bit of basil and mint could also be used along with the tarragon but it is the anise flavor that stands out the most.

Dried cilantro is another option. If you’re using dried cilantro, you can throw some fresh chopped cilantro into the stew at the end of the cooking process, or, use fresh cilantro alone but wait until the end to add it.

Masa harina is used as a thickening agent. It is a special Mexican corn meal that is different than ours. It can be bought in many large chain grocery stores, in the international section.

The guajillo chile used here is a dried chile that is used a lot in Mexico. This makes a spicy and flavorful stew that I hope, knocks your socks off.

Mole Amarillo con Pollo y Verduras Recipe

“Yellow Mexican Mole with Chicken and Vegetables”

This recipe is a great introduction to real Mexican food—much more flavorful than the typical Tex-Mex versions found in most restaurants.

Ingredients

For the Mole Sauce Base:

• 15 Guajillo chiles (dried)
• 5 to 6 tomatillos (husked and halved)
• 1 small tomato (whole)
• 8 garlic cloves (unpeeled)
• Spices: 2 whole allspice, 2 whole cloves, 1 tbsp cumin seeds, 1 tbsp dried oregano
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil

For the Stew:

• 2 lbs red potatoes (quartered)
• 2 lbs carrots (sliced)
• 6 okra (cut into 1-inch pieces)
• 1 cup corn (fresh or frozen)
• 2 lbs chicken (chopped, uncooked)
• Thickener: 1 cup masa harina mixed with 2 cups water
• Herbs: 1 tbsp dried tarragon or cilantro

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Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Roast the Veggies: Toss the tomatillos and tomato with oil and salt. Roast at 375°F for 20-25 minutes until they collapse.
2. Toast the Aromatics: On a hot skillet, toast the unpeeled garlic until soft and the split, deseeded chiles for a few seconds until they crackle.
3. Rehydrate: Cover the toasted chiles with 2 cups of hot water and let them soak for 30 minutes.
4. Blend the Sauce: Combine the chiles (and soaking water), garlic (peels removed), and dried spices in a blender. Add the roasted tomatoes/tomatillos and blend until smooth.Pro Tip: Leave the blender lid slightly askew and cover with a towel when blending hot ingredients to let steam escape!
5. Simmer & Strain: Press the sauce through a wire-mesh strainer into a bowl. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a saucepan and simmer the strained sauce for 10 minutes.
6. Cook the Stew: Boil 12 cups of water. Add potatoes and carrots for 10 minutes, then add chicken, okra, corn, and herbs for 5 more.
7. Thicken & Combine: Slowly stir your masa harina mixture into the simmering sauce until thickened. Pour the sauce into the boiling vegetable/chicken pot and stir well.

Serve your mole in deep bowls with warm tortillas or over rice.

More Authentic Mole Recipes To Try

1. Enrique Olvera’s Iconic “Mole Madre”

Chef Enrique Olvera, whose restaurant Pujol is consistently ranked among the world’s best, is famous for his “Mole Madre” (Mother Mole). This unique dish is served as a circle of aged mole (sometimes over 3,000 days old) with a center of fresh mole.

• Style: A refined, evolving take on Mole Negro.
• The Recipe: While his restaurant version is a “living” sauce, you can find a home-friendly adaptation of his Mole Madre and Mole Nuevo.

2. Pati Jinich’s Traditional Regional Moles

As a James Beard Award-winning chef and host of Pati’s Mexican Table, Pati Jinich is an expert at making traditional Mexican recipes accessible for home cooks.

• Style: She offers a wide variety, including a bright Mole Verde and a sweet-and-savory Almendrado (almond mole).
• The Recipes: You can find her full collection of recipes in her Moles Archives, including her popular Almendrado con Pollo.

3. Gabriela Cámara’s “Mole Rojo de Tepoztlán”

Chef Gabriela Cámara, known for her acclaimed restaurants Contramar in Mexico City and Cala in San Francisco, shares a deeply personal red mole recipe from the town of Tepoztlán.

• Style: Mole Rojo, which is known for its rich red color and balanced heat.
• The Recipe: Her authentic Red Mole from Tepoztlán is featured in her cookbook My Mexico City Kitchen.

4. Rick Bayless’s “Mole Mastery” for Beginners

While not Mexican by birth, Rick Bayless is widely recognized for his decades of deep culinary research in Mexico. His recipes are often considered the gold standard for English-speaking cooks who want to master authentic techniques.

• Style: He provides detailed guides for everything from a Beginner’s Mole to a complex Oaxacan Black Mole.
• The Recipe: His Classic Red Mole with Turkey is a great way to experience a traditional central-style mole.

Authentic Mexican Mole Accompaniments

1. Pati Jinich’s Arroz Rojo (Mexican Red Rice)

No Mexican mole plate is truly complete without a side of fluffy Mexican rice. Chef Pati Jinich’s version is a classic “Arroz Rojo” that uses a fresh tomato and onion purée to give the rice its signature color and depth.

• Why it works: The rice acts as a blank canvas, soaking up the extra mole sauce without competing with its complex spices.
• The Recipe: Pati’s Classic Mexican Red Rice.

2. Rick Bayless’s Frijoles de Olla (Herby Pot-Cooked Beans)

For a more rustic and traditional pairing, Rick Bayless suggests “Frijoles de Olla,” or beans cooked in a clay pot. These aren’t your typical heavy refried beans; they are light, brothy, and seasoned with epazote.

• Why it works: The earthy, clean flavor of the beans provides a perfect savory balance to the intense, often sweet-and-spicy Mole Negro or Mole Rojo.
• The Recipe: Classic Frijoles de Olla.

3. Mely Martinez’s Arroz Blanco con Poblano (White Rice with Corn & Poblanos)

Commonly served alongside Mole Poblano, this vibrant white rice is studded with corn kernels and strips of roasted poblano peppers.

Key Takeaways For The Authentic Mexican Mole

It’s Not Just Chocolate Sauce: Only a small percentage of moles actually contain chocolate; the name comes from the Nahuatl word molli, meaning “sauce” or “mixture”.

Mexico’s True National Dish: Unlike standard sauces, mole is the star of the plate, with meats or vegetables added only as a secondary accompaniment.

A Labor of Love: Authentic versions are complex mestizo creations that can feature up to 100 ingredients and require hours of slow-roasting and grinding.

The Seven Moles of Oaxaca: While there are countless variations, the Oaxaca region is famous for its seven distinct styles, ranging from the dark Mole Negro to the fresh Mole Verde.

Avoid the Shortcuts: Store-bought pastes often use cocoa powder instead of chocolate, resulting in a bitter sauce that lacks the refined, nutty, and smoky profile of a homemade version.

Frequently Asked Questions About Mexican Moles

Is Mexican mole always made with chocolate? Actually, no! While the most famous version, Mole Poblano, uses it, only a small percentage of Mexican moles actually contain chocolate. The word molli simply means “sauce” or “mixture” in Nahuatl.
Why is mole called Mexico’s “National Dish” if it’s a sauce? In traditional Mexican cuisine, the sauce is the main event. Unlike other sauces that play a supporting role, Mexican mole is the star of the show, with meats or vegetables added simply to carry its complex flavors.
Can I make an authentic mole in a blender? While a traditional molcajete is preferred for its ability to grind ingredients into a velvety pulp, you can use a blender and still get an awesome result. Just don’t let a serious traditionalist catch you doing it!
What are the “Seven Moles Oaxaca”? The famous seven (though there are actually eight contenders) include:

• Mole Negro (Black)
• Mole Rojo (Red)
• Mole Coloradito (Little Red)
• Mole Verde (Green)
• Mole Amarillo (Yellow)
• Mole Mancha Manteles (Tablecloth Stainer)
• Mole Chichilo (Smoky/Dark)
• Mole de Almendra (Almond-based)

Is store-bought mole paste a good substitute? Generally, no. Most commercial pastes use cocoa powder instead of chocolate, which can make the sauce overly bitter and miss the depth of a slow-roasted, homemade version.

References

• Coe, Sophie Dobzhansky, and Michael Douglas. Coe. The True History of Chocolate. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1996.
• Bayless, Rick, JeanMarie Brownson, and Deann Groen. Bayless. Rick Bayless Mexico One Plate at a Time. New York: Scribner, 2000.
• Zaslavsky, Nancy, and Morris Zaslavsky. A Cook’s Tour of Mexico: Authentic Recipes from the Country’s Best Open-air Markets, City Fondas, and Home Kitchers. New York: St Martin’s Griffin, 1997.
• Kittler, Pamela Goyan, and Kathryn Sucher. Food and Culture. Australia: Wadsworth/Thomson Learning, 2004.
• Raghavan, Susheela. Handbook of Spices, Seasonings, and Flavorings. Boca Raton, FL: CRC/Taylor & Francis, 2007.
• Hoyer, Daniel. Culinary Mexico: Authentic Recipes and Traditions. Layton: Gibbs Smith, 2005.