Why Does the First Pancake Always Turn Out So Bad?

Many people consider the first pancake a sacrificial pancake. Even famous chef Jacques Pepin said “the first pancake is for the dog.” Different people have different criteria for what makes the first pancake “ruined.” For me, and for many folks, its that the first pancake develops an uneven and overbrowned crust when they want their pancakes to have a nice evenly browned surface that is not crusty. They want soft and fluffy. Others, in trying to compensate for this both undercook their pancake while developing a lightly browned but thick and dry outer surface. How can this problem be solved? How can we get the first pancake to turn out as good as subsequent ones?

According to various internet sources and claims, there are many potential culprits that work to ruin your first pancake. Here are some reasons the first pancake may need to be thrown to the dog:

the pan is not heated enough
the oil is not evenly coating the pan
the batter may cool the pan down when added
the batter needs to rest longer

Is It All the Pan’s Fault?

Most sources lay the blame completely on the pan, saying that it’s not heated up evenly or the pan is not hot enough. The first pancake allows the pan to heat up evenly ensuring the second pancake cooks evenly. However, to compensate for this, they give you instructions that are sure to render your first pancake over-browned and tough, etc. saying you should overheat the pan, cook the first pancake, which will cool down the pan, and then adjust the temperature as needed. This is not a solution, it’s just a way of using the first pancake to test the temperature of the pan, which is what many chefs accept as the best method. In other words, just accept that the first pancake must be sacrificed so that you can dial in the best heat setting for the rest of the pancakes.

It is difficult to get your pan just right for any single batch of pancakes. And, it is true that the pan may be evenly distributing the heat while you cook the first pancake. The first pancake also allows you to make adjustments to the heat. So, you should allow sufficient time for the pan to heat and distribute this heat. A low quality pan may have hot spots, regardless.

However, let’s go over some steps that may help you achieve that perfect first pancake.

Classic Buttermilk Pancakes

The Batter Must Rest

Pancake batter needs time. Often, while you cook the first pancake the batter is resting, ensuring that the leaveners, like baking powder or baking soda and buttermilk, are fully activating. When this occurs, the pancake will start fluffing up immediately while it cooks so that you are not burning the surface while waiting for the cake to rise. As well, the pancake is warming up and getting closer to room temperature so it doesn’t cool down the pan drastically.

Let your pancake batter rest for 5 minutes before cooking your first pancake. Do not stir it more during this period.

Preheat the Pan

Allow your pan to pre-heat on medium heat before adding oil to the pan. You are going for about 375 F. If you want, use an infra-red temperature gun to check the surface temp of the pan.

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Light Coating of Oil

Even nonstick and pans will benefit from a little oil to assist heat transfer. Apply a LIGHT coating of oil to the pan. I apply just a tiny amount and spread it with a paper towel or silicone brush to coat the pan. You don’t want puddles of oil, you want an even coating.

Cook’s Illustrated claims that unevenly and puddly oil is the sole problem with the first pancake as when the pancake comes into contact with these uneven puddles, it develops an uneven brown crust that is too tough and ruins the texture. The first pancake, while sacrificing itself for the greater good, absorbs some of the excess oil and spreads the rest around more evenly.

This is true, but it’s not the only potential problem with the first pancake. Regardless, do not pour loads of oil into the pan. If you do so, even the almighty power of the first pancake will not fix the problem. Coat the pan evenly with a light smearing of oil.

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Adjust the Temperature As Needed

After cooking the first pancake you may want to turn down the temp slightly. This is subject to experimentation with your particular cooking surface. As before, you should start with a pan temperature of 375° F (190.5° C).

Generally, you’ll want a bit more heat for thinner pancakes (thinner batter) and a bit less for thicker pancakes.

Measure The Pancakes Evenly

It’s easier to turn out consistent pancakes if you always use the same amount of batter. So, use an ice cream scoop or cookie scoopers, etc….something you can use to pour out the same amount of batter each time. This way, the pancakes will cook at the same rate.

I’m not going to turn this into a never-ending essay on pancake cookery. The steps above should help ensure that the first pancake turns out as good as the second one. However, there are no guarantees here and that’s why so many cooks accept that the first pancake may not be all that great. A lot is left to the ‘pancake Gods.’ Unlike some of the eternal pessimists on the internet, I prefer to think demons have nothing to do with it. Still, you may want to throw some salt over your right shoulder.