What’s more child-friendly than a root beer? Syrupy and innocent; often caffeine-free, and perfect for an ice cream float. But if you could travel back to a colonial American kitchen, you wouldn’t recognize the drink. Original root beer wasn’t a soda at all; it was an actual beer, brewed not with a barley malt but from a complex bouquet of wild roots. Today, the soul of that traditional brew, Sassafras, is effectively a controlled substance in the American food industry.

In 1960, the FDA issued a ruling that fundamentally altered the flavor of American history. Based on laboratory studies, the agency determined that safrole, the primary aromatic oil in sassafras bark, was a potential carcinogen. Overnight, the root beer that had been brewed for centuries became a legal impossibility for commercial sale.
But the story of sassafras isn’t just about a banned bottle of soda. It’s a story that involves 1960s “rat science,” a cultural exchange with Native Americans, and a strange chemical link to the nutmeg in your spice rack.
The Sassafras Monopoly: Borrowed from the First Nations
Before it was a commercial soda, “root tea” was a staple of Native American medicine and cuisine. Indigenous peoples in the Eastern Woodlands had been using sassafras (Sassafras albidum) for centuries, not just as a beverage but as a flavoring for bear fat and a treatment for everything from fever to skin ailments.
When European colonists arrived, they didn’t just “discover” root beer; they adapted Native American knowledge to their own brewing traditions. Sassafras stood out because of its high concentration of safrole oil, which provided a creamy, spicy, and almost “sweet” aromatic that other roots couldn’t match.
🥯 The Poppy Seed Paradox: While the FDA worries about the trace molecules in your root beer, your morning bagel might be hiding something much more potent. Unlike sassafras, which is banned from commercial sale, poppy seeds are perfectly legal—yet they contain actual opiates. In fact, a single poppy seed muffin can provide enough morphine and codeine to trigger a positive result on a modern drug test.
The Forensic File: The Poppy Seed Defense: Opiates, Bagels, and Drug Tests
The Root Mixtures: Whatever Was On Hand
While sassafras is a predominant of root beer, it was rarely used alone in home-brews. It was almost always part of a botanical bouquet that varied by region and season:
- The Trinity: Sassafras, Sarsaparilla, and Wintergreen formed the “flavor profile” of the American Northeast.
- The Bittering Agents: Dandelion and Burdock were often added to provide the “bite” that we now replicate with carbonation and phosphoric acid.
- The Wildcards: Spruce tips, ginger, and spicebush berries were added for seasonal variation.
If sassafras were not available, then any other combination of roots may have been used. The predominant flavoring root often determined the name of the brew, such as Sarsaparilla for “root beers” with sarsaparilla as the main ingredient.
The Sassafras Craze: America’s First “Wonder Drug”
While root beer could be made from almost any combination of forest floor botanicals, sassafras was the undisputed crown jewel of the mixture. Its popularity wasn’t just a matter of culinary preference; for the early colonists, sassafras was a high-stakes commodity.
By the late 16th century, sassafras had become the second-largest export from the New World to Europe, trailing only behind tobacco. This was fueled by a massive medical rumor: European physicians were convinced that sassafras was a “miracle cure” for syphilis and a host of other ailments.
Why Sassafras Stood Out
Even in a mixture of dozen of roots, sassafras was the “volume knob” of the brew:
- The Aromatic Punch: Unlike the earthy, bitter notes of burdock or the thin mintiness of wintergreen, sassafras oil was dense, creamy, and distinctively “spicy.” It gave even the thinnest small beer a sense of richness.
- The Cultural Bridge: It was one of the few native ingredients that both indigenous peoples and European settlers agreed upon. Native American reports of its curative powers were so enthusiastic that they sparked what historians call the “Sassafras Craze,” turning a wild tree into a global pharmaceutical sensation.
By the time root beer began to transition from a homemade beer to a commercial soda, the flavor of sassafras had become so synonymous with the drink that a version without it felt like an imitation.
🔬 The “Rat Science” of 1960
The fall of sassafras began in a laboratory, not a kitchen. In the late 1950s, researchers conducted a series of experiments to determine the safety of safrole. The results were stark: laboratory rats fed high doses of pure safrole developed malignant liver tumors.
On December 3, 1960, the FDA officially struck sassafras from the list of approved food additives. But to understand the “Prohibition,” we have to look at the Actual Dosage:
- The Lab Reality: In the pivotal studies, rats were fed a diet consisting of up to 1% pure safrole.
- The Human Equivalent: For a person to consume a proportional amount of safrole through root beer, they would need to drink between 30 and 50 gallons a day, every day, for years.
🥤 The Safrole/Saccharin Parallel: A Lesson in Dosage
The 1960 ban on sassafras wasn’t the only time “Rat Science” nearly upended the American pantry. In 1977, the FDA attempted to ban the artificial sweetener Saccharin for the exact same reason: laboratory rats developed bladder tumors after being fed massive quantities of the substance. The fact is that no human has ever received huge doses of pure safrole in a study, or in a beverage!
Just as with sassafras, the dosage was the catch. To match the levels given to the rats, a human would have to drink roughly 800 cans of diet soda every day.
The public outcry was so significant that Congress eventually stepped in to delay the ban, eventually requiring a warning label instead. Decades later, the National Toxicology Program officially removed saccharin from the list of carcinogens, concluding that the tumors were a result of a biological mechanism unique to rats, not humans.
🔴 Red No. 3 and the Delaney Clause: A more recent example of this “species mismatch” involves FD&C Red No. 3. In 1990, the FDA banned certain uses of the dye based on studies where high doses caused thyroid tumors in rats. This flawed research was very much similar to the safrole rat studies.
And, much like sassafras and saccharin, the biological reality was more complex. Research later suggested that the tumors were caused by a hormonal mechanism unique to the rat’s thyroid, a biological pathway that simply doesn’t exist in humans.
However, because of the Delaney Clause, a 1958 amendment that requires the FDA to ban any food additive shown to cause cancer in laboratory animals, regardless of the dose or the mechanism, the agency was legally required to act. This “zero-tolerance” policy is often why the results of extreme rodent studies end up dictating what stays on our grocery shelves. Is the safrole-free requirement any different than the banning of Red. No. 3?
Read the Full History: Food Coloring Safety: The History, Science, and 2027 FDA Red No. 3 Ban
While sassafras never got its “day in court” like saccharin did, the obvious question remains: Is the molecule truly the enemy, or is it just the gargantuan dose of the “pure stuff?”
The Safrole Volatility Factor
What the original 1960s ban often overlooked, and what modern research highlights, is how safrole behaves when it hits boiling water. Recent chemical analysis suggests that the traditional method of “decocting” (boiling) the root actually changes the chemistry of the drink.
Because safrole is a volatile oil with a low boiling point, much of it escapes as steam during the long, rolling boil required for a traditional beer. By the time the tea is poured, the toxic load is significantly lower than what the original lab rats were fed via a concentrated, cold diet.
If it’s evaporating, why is it still so flavorful? It’s a matter of threshold. Safrole is so chemically aggressive that it doesn’t take much to saturate your senses. While the rolling boil acts as a “safety valve” by venting the bulk of the volatile oil into the air, the water captures the non-volatile resins and the remaining safrole fraction. You’re essentially “distilling” the root in reverse, removing the excess while keeping the essence.
🧩 The Nutmeg Connection: If safrole is truly a “prohibited” substance, you might wonder why it’s currently sitting in your kitchen cabinet. Safrole is a naturally occurring component of nutmeg, but unlike sassafras, which was banned as a concentrated additive, nutmeg escaped the 1960 FDA purge.
The reason? Dosage and delivery. While root beer was consumed by the gallon, nutmeg is used by the “pinch.” However, when consumed in large, non-culinary amounts, the chemistry of nutmeg becomes far more complex (and dangerous) than a simple bottle of soda.
Read the Scientific Investigation: The Nutmeg High: A Clinical Look at Myristicin Toxicity
The Great Flavor Swap
When the FDA banned safrole-heavy sassafras in 1960, the root beer industry faced a crisis. To keep the flavor profile consistent without the “illegal” sassafras oil, they turned to… wintergreen and birch.
- Modern Root Beer: Relies heavily on methyl salicylate (wintergreen/birch flavor) and artificial sassafras aromatics to mimic the old sassafras profile.
- Modern Birch Beer: Often uses natural birch essential oils (sourced from sap or bark) but generally lacks the “earthy” root extracts (ginger, licorice, dandelion) that differentiate root beer.
Fun Fact: While root beer “cheats” by using birch/wintergreen notes to replace sassafras, a true Birch Beer usually sticks strictly to the birch oil, which is why it tastes cleaner, more minty, and less syrupy than its cousin.
Is Real Root Beer Banned?
The lack of any real sassafras in commercial root beer soda brands begs the question? Is real root beer banned from the United States? If we are talking about actual beer brewed from roots, ironically, the reason you can’t find ‘real’ root beer at the store isn’t just because of the 1960 FDA ban on safrole. It’s because the beverage industry moved on. Most ‘Hard Root Beers’ on the market today are fermented from grain and then re-flavored, they are a neutral malt base to which flavoring extracts and syrups are added. The “malt” background of these and other “hard” beverages cannot be escaped.
- The “Brewed” Myth: Most “Hard Root Beers” are essentially Alcopops (flavored malt beverages). They borrow the “Brewery” name to sound folksy and traditional, but the chemistry is closer to a soda than a colonial root beer.
- The Malt Base Reality: To be sold as “beer” in many states, these drinks must be fermented from grain (malt). This means they aren’t “root-brewed” beers; they are grain-brewed beers with root flavorings.
- The Answer to the Banned Root Beer: While selling a beverage using sassafras roots rather than a safrole-free extract is banned, this does not mean that REAL root beer (the kind made by fermenting roots) is banned by law. Instead, it is simply a matter of economics. It is much harder and more expensive to brew a traditional root-based fermented beverage than it is to flavor a cheap malt base.
There are a few brands that claim to be different but the closest thing to a real root beer I’ve been able to find is Sprecher Brewing Company: Bourbon Barrel Aged Root Beer. They use honey and real sassafras/sarsaparilla extracts, and the brewing process involves actual boiling of the ingredients. However, they then age it in bourbon barrels to give it a ‘Bourbon’ flavor. It seems no-one is interested in brewing a traditional root beer without some kind of gimmick, or simply faking it.
The Home-Brew Loophole: Your Kitchen, Your Rules
While the FDA’s 21 CFR 189.180 prevents a company from selling you a bottle of sassafras-brewed root beer, it does not stop you from becoming a “root-to-glass” historian in your own kitchen.
In the United States, sassafras trees are not “contraband.” You are perfectly free to forage for sassafras roots, purchase dried bark from an apothecary or health food store, and brew a traditional root tea or fermented small beer for your own personal consumption. The “prohibition” is strictly a commercial one, a matter of consumer protection law, not personal restriction.
If you decide to take the traditional route and ferment your brew, just remember that the beer refers to the alcohol content. While you are free to experiment with traditional recipes, there are still federal guidelines on exactly how much “real” beer you can legally produce in your home.
Read About the Home Beer Brewing Laws: How Much Beer is it Legal to Brew at Home for Personal Use?
The strategy of grouping these as a “Banned & Restricted” further reading section is perfect. It reinforces your site’s identity as a hub for food law and forensic history while giving readers a “rabbit hole” of related mysteries to follow.
I’ve reviewed the Sassafras draft and the links you provided. Here is a cohesive way to present these “Further Reading” links at the end of your article to maximize engagement:
🏛️ Further Investigations
If you enjoyed the mystery of the Sassafras Prohibition, you might find these other “forbidden” food and drink histories equally compelling:
- The Banned Candy: Why Haw Flakes Were Pulled from U.S. Shelves – A look at how unapproved additives can turn a childhood treat into a legal violation.
- Food Law: Why is Blood Sausage Illegal in the United States? – My deep dive into the specific USDA regulations that keep traditional blood puddings off the American market, except for a few very special sources.
- What is Needle Beer? The Dangerous Prohibition-Era “DIY” Brew – Long before the 1960 root beer pivot, bootleggers were using “needles” to inject industrial kick into near-beer.
- Palatable Pharmacy: The “Druggy” History of Early Soft Drinks – From cocaine to lithium, explore the era when your local soda fountain was essentially an unregulated apothecary.