Did Egg Creams Have Eggs? The True History of the Drink

An egg cream is a beverage that got its start in New York. Just where in New York is the subject of debate. Did it originate in Brooklyn, as many claim? Or was it brought into Brooklyn? Indeed, even the kind of establishment it was originally served in differs according to source. Was it the Jewish deli, the Jewish candy store, or the soda fountain? For that matter, is it a Jewish invention at all? What many New Yorkers will agree on, however, is that despite its name, the famous New York Egg Cream never contained any eggs. In this article, I present to you the definitive the history of the drink to answer the age-old question: did egg creams have eggs?

Ingredients for a New York drink: Did egg creams have eggs?

Estimated reading time: 25 minutes. In a hurry? Skip to the key points summary at the end of the article. But don’t forget to bookmark and come back or you’ll be missing out on a lot of good information.

Today, of course, the egg cream does not contain eggs. But whether it used to contain eggs is a subject of controversy and often debate. Nobody seems too bothered that it doesn’t really contain cream, either. Today, the egg cream is more of a milky chocolate soda, consisting of milk, chocolate syrup, and soda water.

Of course, according to egg cream enthusiasts, there is a right way and a wrong way to make an egg cream. Debates rage on which kind of chocolate syrup should be used and in which order the ingredients should be added. If the seltzer is on top, as in the Bronx, you get a nice brown head. If the milk is on top, it’s an appetizing creamy white, like the egg cream in Brooklyn.

Daniel Bell’s Uncle Hymie

Daniel Bell claimed in the March 1971 issue of New York Magazine that the egg cream originally contained eggs and cream, and that his Uncle Hymie invented the drink at his candy store on Second Avenue and Eighth Street. Usually featuring a soda fountain, the candy store was another New York institution

In those days, during the 1920’s, the main attraction at a candy store was the chocolate soda, nothing more than syrup and soda water.

And, according to Bell, Second Avenue was THE place to be for New York Jews looking for entertainment or a nice restaurant dinner. Afterward, they might stop off at the candy store for a chocolate soda. Uncle Hymie called the area the crème de la crème.

Did you know that the first puffed cereals were literally made with a cereal cannon? Find out the explosive origin the origin of “Sugar Smacks” and the engineering feat that eventually led to cereals like Kix and Choco-Puffs. Read More: The Physics of the Puff: How the “Cereal Cannon” Ignited a Breakfast Revolution

The Candy Store Secret: Did Egg Creams Have Eggs or Ice Cream?

The chocolate soda was nothing more than one part chocolate syrup and two parts seltzer. Uncle Hymie, although proud to be able to own a store on Second Avenue, was a bit frustrated and felt he had failed to make his mark. He wanted to do something distinctive.

Since the commercial chocolate syrup was too thin, Uncle Hymie made his own in small batches. This task he accomplished in the small back room on a little stove. His habit, while attending to the syrup, was to have his favorite drink, a chocolate soda with a scoop of chocolate ice cream added.

The combination of the small, hot room, and his ice cream adulterated soda produced a happy accident. The ice cream would melt and he ended up with a creamy soda that was so rich he had to add more seltzer. This gave him the idea of serving chocolate cream sodas: chocolate sodas with ice cream mixed in.

Unfortunately, the recipe didn’t work out so well: the ice cream would not mix in evenly but would settle to the bottom. No matter how much he whipped it, the ice cream would eventually settle back down. However, there was another drink served at the candy store: the egg malted.

🫧 The Science of Fizz The signature head of an egg cream depends entirely on the seltzer. But where did this bubbly water actually come from, and why do we call it “seltzer” instead of just club soda? Discover the Origins of Seltzer.

The Egg Malted Drink

The egg malted was actually a “medicinal” drink. Parents viewed raw eggs as the perfect way to keep a growing Jewish boy healthy. But what boy wanted to suck down a raw egg?

The solution was to add the egg to a malted milkshake. This drink was probably heavy enough to serve as a lunch and it was pretty popular on the Lower East Side.

The malted milkshake with an egg was a regular enough soda fountain item to have its own slang. For instance, a malted chocolate milkshake with an egg may have been called out as twist it, choke it, and make it cackle. See diner slang for more.

Why Did Egg Creams Have Eggs Like Malteds?

Hymie noticed that the eggs thickened the malteds. He figured they might thicken his chocolate sodas as well. He used syrup and cream and held it all together with eggs: Uncle Hymie created the egg cream and it was an instant success. If you believe the story.

Then came the ‘creaming’ part…of Uncle Hymie that is. Some competitors started selling egg creams as well and one of them, right across the street, had the same name as Hymie! This guy started selling egg creams and calling them Hymie’s Egg Cream. Can you imagine?

💡 Did You Know? Soda fountain “jerks” had a secret language all their own. If you think “make it cackle” is strange, wait until you hear what they called a glass of water or a slice of pie. Explore the world of Diner Slang here.

Uncle Hymie’s Egg Cream War

Needless to say, Uncle Hymie was in a rage, and war was declared. Uncle Hymie put up a sign declaring his product to be The Original Egg Cream.

Bell says that word did manage to spread and people were starting to realize that Uncle Hymie’s egg cream was the true original. But the depression intervened.

Uncle Hymie was using choice ingredients and couldn’t let his go for less than 6 cents. The guy across the street started selling his for 5 cents. Uncle Hymie had no choice but to follow suit.

The Imposter “Egg” Cream

It turns out, though, that the imposter was up to some dirty dealing. He wasn’t using egg or cream at all. Instead, he simply put in some milk and used a narrow, highly pressurized stream of soda water to fizz up the drink and give it a frothy and sort of creamy texture that was close enough to the egg cream to fool some people.

Uncle Hymie couldn’t compete with this without compromising his product, which he refused to do. He stopped selling egg creams and went back to selling only chocolate sodas. And the egg cream became the product as it is known today, chocolate syrup and seltzer with a dollop of milk.

I don’t know about you but I think that is a great story that sounds credible. But we shall never know if it is true. Ironically, if the story is true is makes the “false Hymie,” as Bell called him, the true inventor of the egg cream as it is known today.

Auster’s Story: Did Egg Creams Have Eggs Originally?

Uncle Bell’s article also mentions another inventor who claimed he invented the egg cream, an early competitor called Pop Auster. This egg-cream claimant opend up a candy store on Seventh Street and Second Avenue.

Pop Auster’s real name was Louis Auster and his grandson, Stanley Auster, claims that it was Pop Auster who invented the egg cream. Stanley, like Bell, worked in one of his grandfather’s five candy stores.

According to Stanley, there were milk products and chocolate syrup in Auster’s egg cream, but never any egg or cream. Auster used the name “egg cream” as a misnomer.

People thought there was cream in it because it was creamy, and they “would like to think there was egg in it” since eggs meant something expensive and good.

The Name Mystery: If they were Egg-Free, Why Did Egg Creams Have Eggs?

Remember how there were eggs in the malted and it was seen as healthy and somewhat medicinal, and you can see that this is credible as well. But Stanley never really explained how the name came about, he just suggested that it was inaccurate.

Thomashevsky’s Chocolat et Crème

Folklore provides another story for the name’s origin, which researchers also link to Auster. It seems a Yiddish actor named Boris Thomashevsky visited Paris and had a wonderful drink call a chocolat et crème. This story offers a different take on the question: did egg creams have eggs or was it all just a linguistic misunderstanding?

When he came back to New York, he visited a candy store, which was probably Auster’s, and told the counterman about the drink. Since chocolat et crème sounded like chocolate egg cream in the actor’s Yiddish accent, the name stuck.

Another version claims Auster independently invented the drink. When the actor returned from Paris, he declared Auster’s version superior to the original chocolat et crème, cementing the name.

More Theories: Did Egg Creams Have Eggs or Just a Clever Name?

The most widely held story is that Auster named the drink himself because the white foam layer on top resembled beaten egg whites. Yet another story says that since “Grade A” milk was used, it was called an A-cream, which became egg cream.

Regardless of its true origins, the egg cream survived past the 1920s and, after the depression, became a big part of the New Yorker’s childhood in the 1940s and 50s. Mention an egg cream to an older New Yorker and you will get a nostalgic trip down memory lane.

Today, the egg cream not only survives but comes in different flavors, like cherry, lime, mango and even tamarind. Of course, most oldsters would never have anything to do with these!

The drink’s Jewish roots have long since been forgotten by most New Yorkers, as has the precise place of origin. Or, perhaps these roots weren’t forgotten, but simply never existed.

The egg cream is thought of simply as a New York original. It does seem clear that the candy stores served up a great many during the 30s through 50s. Too many older New Yorkers recall having egg creams at the candy store for this not to be true.

This does not prove, however, that egg creams were invented in a candy store. Another invention story claims it was invented by soda jerks who used a syrup made from eggs and cream, which was eventually replaced with milk and a sugar-based syrup. Being that it is a soda drink the story is not too far-fetched.

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Historical Evidence: Did Egg Creams Have Eggs?

There is a very early mention of the egg cream in The Standard Manual of Soda and Other Beverages, dated 1906. Publishers have printed this book since 1897. Most egg cream aficionados do not take this recipe seriously, but it seems to lend credence to the egg cream syrup story of the soda fountain above.

If you look at the 1906 manual, you find a clear answer to the question: Did egg creams have eggs in the early 20th century?

4 oz. Cream
12 oz. syrup (presumably simple syrup)
1 or 2 drams vanilla extract
4 egg yolks

Rub cream with egg-yolks until perfectly smooth, then add the syrup and the flavoring. This is to be served like a plain “soda” syrup in a 12-ounce glass, but before handing over, sprinkle a little powdered spice, such as grated nutmeg, on the foam.

Interesting! The book features the egg cream as just one of many egg-based drinks, which hale from the days of the “phosphate.”

And this, along with the fact that eggs were a healthy and medicinal food, may help us get at the true history of the egg cream.

More Early Printed Examples: Did Egg Creams Have Eggs?

Here is another fairly early mention from the National Drug Clerk, dated 1913:

1 egg
1 malted milk
vanilla ice cream
vanilla syrup
carbonated water

These recipes make the popular invention stories seem increasingly dubious. What seems to have happened is that earlier recipes, that included eggs, cream, or ice cream, was updated due to economic realities, when people could no longer afford eggs and cream. Or, that is, when soda fountains could no longer afford to keep these expensive ingredients without raising the price.

Were the above examples not enough for you. How about one dated as far back as 1899! This is from the American druggist and Pharmaceutical Record.

4 oz. evaporated cream
4 egg yolks
1 oz extract vanilla
13 oz syrup

And how about the Western Druggist from 1894, which was almost exactly like the one above, except calling for only 12 ounces syrup.

Wesley A. Bonham included this recipe in his guide, which dates back to at least 1894:

“Bonham’s Guide for Soda Dispensers: Being a Complete Repertory for Manufacturing Soda and Mineral Waters, Water Ices and Ice Creams : Compounding Plain and Fancy Syrups and Dispensing All Varieties of the Latest and Most Popular Beverages in an Attractive Manner.”

This guide, by Wesley A. Bonham, dates at least back to 1894, and probably earlier.

Practical Druggist and Pharmaceutical Review of Reviews, in 1915, listed a recipe called simply:

Chocolate Lunch

Chocolate syrup, one ounce and a half; malted milk, a heaping teaspoonful; one egg; cream, one-half ounce. Add a little shaved ice, shake, strain, and fill glass with plain soda, using fine stream moderately. These “lunch” drinks are becoming very popular with both men and women, and are being featured exclusively at many fountains.

If you don’t think this “lunch drink” sounds suspiciously similar to a modern egg cream, you must be in egg cream denial.

Sodas Began at the Drug Store

It seems that druggists had many choices of formularies, or basically, recipes. They were called formularies because eggs were thrown into sodas for the same reason many other unusual (by today’s standards) ingredients were added: they were for medicine.

They were also such a high-end product that just having eggs around was thought to improve your business’s image and profitability. Druggists routinely added eggs to all sorts of medicinal drinks and sodas.

The soda got its start in the pharmacy. Old-time pharmacies featured soda fountains because they used flavored sodas to make nasty-tasting medicines palatable. Of course, in those days, they had a different idea of what a medicine was.

Medicinal Foundations: Did Egg Creams Have Eggs for Health Reasons?

You might have a lithiated phosphate, for instance. That’s a phosphate with some lithium thrown in. This gave a kick to the kidneys; and relieved gout and rheumatism.

And have you heard of the cocktail called the Manhattan? Well, the drug store soda fountain might serve a Manhattan Punch, which was a green tea, lemon juice, and coca leaf extract concoction (cocaine comes from coca leaves). The most famous soft drink to contain an extract of coca leaves is obvious: Coca Cola.

Coca leaves not your speed? You might need some morphine or hashish instead. You could get those in a refreshing soda.

A Manual of Egg Drinks: Did Egg Creams Have Eggs Like These?

Is it beginning to seem like having eggs in your drink is no big deal? In our standard manual we have the Egg Almond, Egg Ambrosia, Egg Apricot, Egg Banana, Egg Birch, and Egg Blackberry.

All of these were prepared the same way, except the appropriate flavor of syrup was used. Similarly there was the Egg Calisaya, Egg Catawba, Egg Cherry, and Egg Chocolate.

Chocolate syrup and egg. Add some soda water. Chocolate soda, chocolate syrup with soda water. Egg cream. Seems connected, does it not? When we compare these formulas, the age-old question, “Did egg creams have eggs?” starts to look less like a mystery and more like a naming convention

When comparing these formulas, the question of whether egg creams had eggs starts to look less like a mystery and more like a naming convention based on actual ingredients.”

Most likely, the “egg cream” was either not invented in the way the popular stories tell, or was independently invented. It could also be that the name for the earlier egg cream, which contained eggs, was appropriated for the later invention, whether or not this later drink contained eggs.

There Were Many Soda Fountain Drinks That Contained Eggs

It is simply not valid to completely dismiss any mention of eggs having been in the egg cream. Soda fountains served far too many egg drinks to dismiss the idea of eggs in an egg cream.

More Egg Recipes From Egg Cream Soda Manual

Egg Coffee Soda
Egg Currant
Egg Claret
Egg Fizz
Egg Flip (various)
Egg Foam
Egg Lemonade
Egg Ginger
Egg Phosphates (many)
Egg Milk (Egg Milk Shake)

Beyond those, the book also lists the Egg Shake, Cream, which used ice cream. And you’ve heard of Egg Nog, of course! That’s in there as well. If I tried to list them all you’d get bored and stop reading this article, if you aren’t already, so suffice it to say that egg drinks were a thing at the soda fountain. So why not an egg cream with egg (and cream) in it?

🥚 A Different Kind of Egg Drink While we’re answering that anger inducing question, did egg creams have eggs, have you ever wondered why there isn’t any nog in Eggnog? It turns out the “nog” part has a history just as surprising as the egg cream. Read the Full History of Eggnog.

A Soda Fountain Staple: Why Did Egg Creams Have Eggs While Others Didn’t?

Vichy Shake or an Orgeat a la Egg, the idea that an Egg Cream was the lone exception—the one “egg” drink without eggs—doesn’t fit the historical pattern.

At the height of the soda fountain era, eggs were such a standard ingredient that omitting them from a drink specifically named “Egg Cream” would have been the exception, not the rule. These recipes weren’t just anomalies; they were staples that paved the way for the New York classic we know today.

19th Century Trends at the Soda Fountain and Egg Creams

In fact, in the late nineteenth century, after the Civil War, egg drinks, milk-based drinks, and ice cream sodas became quite popular at the soda fountain.

Customers demanded more flavorful and filling drinks than plain soda water. Soda fountains sold raw egg drinks as top items in the 1890s, especially the above-mentioned egg phosphate (egg, soda, phosphoric acid, and flavored syrup).

Did Egg Creams Have Eggs Like Other Sodas?

The phosphates, which manufacturers made with phosphoric acid, never quite went out of fashion. Look on the ingredient list of almost any modern soda, and you’ll find phosphoric acid in the mix. If that survived, it isn’t so hard to imagine that eggs may have survived for at least a little while.

Malted milk, itself marketed as a health drink, also became popular around this time, and was a big fad in the 1920’s. Milkshakes were popular since at least the mid-1880’s and remember how I mentioned that raw eggs were sometimes put into malteds or milkshakes for “growing boys?”

Well, in 1890, Funk and Wagnall’s dictionary defined “milkshakes” as the following:

An iced drink made of sweetened and flavored milk, carbonated water, and sometimes raw egg, mixed by being violently shaken by a machine specially invented for the purpose.

So, yes, there were special milkshake machines, called Lightning Shakers, patented by Tufts in 1884; but the point is, that sounds a bit like an egg cream, doesn’t it? In fact, it is a soda, and nothing like what we call a milkshake today.

Imagine if you wanted to produce something like that but you didn’t have the old Lightning Shaker? You might do the best you could and come up with something similar to what Auster or Hymie did.

Whether made with milk or eggs and cream, the egg cream likely evolved from late 19th-century soda fountain traditions.

The later proprietors of the candy store, or the soda fountains, may well have remembered these earlier drinks and sought to ‘reinvent’ them, conveniently forgetting the origin of the idea. It seems that sodas commonly contained eggs, even those with phosphates.

Egg Cream as a Substitute for Ice Cream Sodas or Malteds

This brings us to the “egg cream as a cheap alternative” legends, which claim that egg cream was just a way to replace expensive ice cream sodas or malteds.

The modern egg cream likely served as a cheaper alternative to earlier egg-based versions. This also gives a little boost to Bell’s Uncle Hymie story, in which a cheap rip-off product was used in place of the more expensive and true egg cream.

Even if we choose to believe that eggs were never in the picture we can deduce that the later egg cream is a simplified version of the “Milk Shake” found in our Standard Manual.

One historical manual explains the process this way: did egg creams have eggs in this specific recipe?

Put about 4 ounces of shaved ice into a thick 12-ounce glass, add 1 fluid ounce of vanilla syrup, fill the glass thoroughly with milk, and agitate the whole thoroughly. A dispenser may use a special machine known as a ‘milk shaker’ or use a small hand shaker like that used for making egg drinks. Then strain into another glass and serve.

Another syrup (e.g. chocolate) might be substituted for the vanilla syrup.

The Transition to Modern Recipes: Did Egg Creams Have Eggs Originally?

So, we have a tradition of milk, syrup, and water drinks. We have egg shakes. We have a milkshake being defined as a shaken egg, milk, and soda water drink.

And we have a long tradition of milk, cream, and egg based drinks in general. There is absolutely no reason to think that the egg cream was originally invented in 1920’s New York. Reinvented is what seems to have happened.

The Cost Factor: Why Did Egg Creams Have Eggs at First?

The original egg cream probably DID have egg in it; and cream! The early soda fountain customers were not likely to buy a drink that cost more than 5 cents. It was the traditional price and they had paid it so long it became a barrier.

As economic times changed, egg and cream became a luxury, and there was no way to keep these ingredients along with the 5 cent price. Faced with these costs, the solution seems obvious: soda jerks simply removed the egg and replaced the cream with milk while keeping the name

These facts don’t necessarily strip the modern egg cream stories of all truth. Somebody well may have popularized a cheaper version of an older idea that was never in as high demand as it became thereafter.

In essence, the drink was a “new invention” to those who enjoyed it at the time. However, history refutes the claim that egg creams never contained eggs.

The modern egg cream may lack eggs, but earlier history certainly included egg-based drinks with that name. We cannot dismiss these earlier recipes, as they are too similar to the modern version

Today’s New York Egg Creams

Some sources claim that the original ‘New York’ egg cream used vanilla syrup while the “Brooklyn” Egg Cream used chocolate. I don’t know if this is true since according to every old New Yorker I’ve ever known, flavor was hardly ever mentioned for an egg cream, they were always chocolate.

If customers mentioned a specific flavor, they usually wanted vanilla. The two traditional New York versions that survive today differ mostly by the order in which the ingredients are added.

Brooklyn Egg Cream vs. Bronx Egg Cream Ingredients

Brooklyn Egg Cream: syrup, then milk, then seltzer for a milky white foam
Bronx Egg Cream: syrup and seltzer mixed, then milk added for a brownish head.

The famous Gem Spa on St. Marks Place and Second Avenue, a newspaper stand slash candy store, still sells serves an old fashioned egg cream, although it is in a paper cup instead of a glass.

Although the store was already a well-known spot, The New York Dolls made the Gem Spa famous by posing outside it for the back cover of their first album.

According to Michael Miscione in the City Secrets® book New York City, “this Manhattan newsstand serves the best version of that world-famous concoction of milk, seltzer, and syrup that is often described as the quintessential New York beverage.”

Miscione says the secret, besides the proper proportions, is very, very cold milk. He complains, however, that the “mixologists” at the Gem Spa have one fault: “They will ask you what flavor you want.” The only real flavor, of course, according to any real New Yorker, is chocolate.

Bottled Egg Cream

Today, you can get bottled versions of egg cream, such as Jeff’s Chocolate Egg Cream (also in vanilla). They contain carbonated water, corn syrup, milk, cream, cocoa (or vanilla), natural and artificial flavors, preservatives, and are old friend phosphoric acid. Even when looking at modern bottled versions, people still wonder, did egg creams have eggs originally, or was the name always just marketing?

Manufacturers also use vegetable gum stabilizers to hold the mixture together. Besides the milk and cream, it is not much different than any other soda. But at over $2.50 per 10oz bottle, it’s an indulgence.

I cannot say it doesn’t taste as good as a fresh egg cream, since, despite all the debate and hype, I don’t think egg creams taste very good, anyway. Don’t get me wrong, it is interesting and I do like it a bit. But just not enough to take a trip to New York.

The “Proper” Chocolate Syrup For An Egg Cream

The history and nostalgia behind it is more interesting than the actual drink. You can make a homemade version with seltzer water, chocolate syrup, and milk. But, the real version needs a special chocolate syrup.

One of the traditional syrups, if not the traditional syrup, is Fox’s U-Bet syrup, shown in the image above. You need whole milk, and any brand of seltzer.

Put an inch or two of syrup in the bottom of the glass. Then add a couple of inches of milk. Fill with the seltzer and mix (you need to mix because you aren’t using the pressurized stream of seltzer).

A Proper Egg Cream Can’t Be Made At Home?

While modern enthusiasts focus on the technique of the fizz, the underlying historical question remains: did egg creams have eggs when the first professional soda jerks were perfecting the craft? Egg cream experts will tell you, of course, that a proper egg cream cannot be made at home. This sounds like the legend of the French beurre blanc, which critics claimed for years belonged only to a few skilled chefs.

For the egg cream, it is the art of spritzing the high pressure soda water into the glass over the back of a spoon, thereby putting air into the mix and starting to mix the syrup and milk. If you aren’t a professional soda jerk, it’s just hopeless, your egg cream will not taste right.

The Final Verdict: Did Egg Creams Have Eggs Originally?

So, while the modern version is egg-free, history shows us that originally, did egg creams have eggs? Yes, they absolutely did.

Key Summary Points: Did Egg Creams Have Eggs?

The Legend: Many New Yorkers firmly believe that, despite its name, the famous New York Egg Cream never contained any eggs.
The Question: This article (cited in Food History books), through rigorous research and unparalleled investigation, has definitively answered the age-old question: Did egg creams have eggs?
The Original Recipe: While modern versions are egg-free, historical soda fountain manuals from the late 19th century prove that early versions of the egg creams did have eggs.
The Ingredients: Today’s classic New York treat consists of milk, seltzer, and chocolate syrup (traditionally Fox’s U-Bet), but it originally mirrored other “egg phosphate” drinks of the era.
The Name Mystery: Theories for the name range from a Yiddish mispronunciation of chocolat et crème to the frothy, egg-white-like head created by the high-pressure seltzer stream.
Economic Shift: The transition to the eggless version likely happened during the Depression when expensive ingredients like eggs and cream were swapped for milk to keep the “five-cent” price point.

References

Abramovitch, Ilana, and Sea´n Galvin. Jews of Brooklyn. Hanover, NH: University of New England Brandeis UP, 2002. 203-204.
Bell, Daniel. “The Original Egg Cream – Its Birth, Death, and Transfiguration: Or, The Creaming of Uncle Hymie.” New York Magazine 8 Mar. 1971: 32-34. Web. 31 Aug. 2012.
Hiss, A. Emil. The Standard Manual of Soda and Other Beverages: A Treatise Especially Adapted to the Requirements of Druggists and Confectioners. Chicago: G.P. Engelhard, 1906.
Smith, Andrew F. The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink. Oxford: Oxford UP, 2007. 205.
Funderburg, Anne Cooper. Sundae Best: A History of Soda Fountains. Bowling Green, OH: Bowling Green State University Popular, 2002.¹O’Neil, Darcy. Fix the Pumps. [S.l.]: Art of Drink, 2009.
Kahn, Robert. City Secrets Guides New York City. New York: Little Bookroom, 2002. 154.