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Arborio rice is not the best rice for risotto. The best rice for risotto is actually Carnaroli rice. I’ll bet that is surprising since chefs have been selling us on the virtues of arborio for years. Another contender for great risotto is Vialone Nano. Before I explain why carnaroli is better, though, let’s talk about why we need special rice to make risotto in the first place.
See also: What Kind of Rice Do I Need for Thai Food?
Estimated reading time: 7 to 8 minutes. In a hurry? You can skip to the key takeaways or read the FAQ section for quick answers to your questions about risotto.
What is Special About Rice for Risotto?
All three of these medium-grained rice varieties have a similar structure in common.
If you look closely at a grain of arborio or carnaroli, you will see a translucent part on the outside and a separate opaque area called a pearl on the inside. These two layers contain different types of starch.
All rice contains a mixture of amylose and amylopectin starches. However, risotto rice has a high amylopectin layer on the outside, the translucent part, and a high amylose grain on the inside. Each part reacts differently to cooking in water.
As you add water or broth to the rice to make risotto, the high-amylopectin part of the rice starts to dissolve. This releases starch and creates a thickened creamy sauce. Meanwhile, the amylose part on the inside begins to expand and soften. This is why you stir risotto while adding water or broth in batches. Stirring helps liberate the amylopectin to create a creamy sauce. Simultaneously, this process allows the inner grain to soften and cook through evenly.
Contrary to popular belief, you can cook any variety of “risotto” rice by just adding the appropriate amount of water and simmering in a covered pan. It won’t be risotto, but it won’t be bad, either.
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Why is Carnaroli the Best Rice for Risotto Instead of Arborio?
In the U.S., most cooks consider Arborio to be the best rice for risotto. However, the only reason Americans think Arborio is the best that it has long been widely available. This grain is also responsible for risotto’s reputation as an unforgiving and difficult dish to perfect.
Arborio is notoriously finicky because its window of perfection is incredibly narrow. One moment, the core feels unpleasantly chalky and underdone; thirty seconds later, the exterior collapses into a mushy, starchy mess. This hair-trigger transition makes it difficult to judge exactly when to pull the pan from the heat. Even a slight delay in serving can be disastrous, as the grain’s residual heat continues to soften the rice until your elegant dish turns into a thick, gummy paste.
In contrast, Carnaroli rice offers a much more graceful cooking experience. Although it is grown alongside Arborio in the fertile Po Valley of Northern Italy, it possesses a sturdier structure that refuses to turn to mush in an instant. This resilience results in a significantly creamier risotto because it can withstand more stirring without breaking down. Because it is so forgiving, the grain maintains its perfect al dente core for a much longer window of time.
Basic Rules for Risotto
- Choose Your Liquid Wisely: Risotto can be made with water, but a high-quality broth provides much more depth. While store-bought broth or bouillon cubes will make an enjoyable risotto, a homemade chicken, beef, or vegetable broth is best.
- Enhance with Mushrooms: For a classic mushroom risotto, choose porcini. Steep dried porcini mushrooms in your heated broth. Remove the mushrooms before cooking, then chop and re-incorporate them at the very end to maximize flavor. If you can’t find them locally, I recommend Delitaliana Dried Porcini Mushrooms.
- Select the Right Pan: Use a heavy-bottomed, medium-sized saucepan. Avoid using a wide skillet; the increased surface area allows for too much evaporation, which can cause the rice to cook unevenly or too quickly.
- Start with Aromatics: Traditionally, you begin by sautéing onions in butter until soft. You can also use olive oil for a lighter profile.
- Toast the Rice: Add your Carnaroli rice to the butter and onions, stirring until the grains are coated and the edges appear translucent. This “toasting” step is crucial for flavor and texture.
- Add Liquid in Batches: Maintain medium-high heat and add approximately 1/2 cup of warm broth at a time. Stir almost constantly. While the world won’t end if you stop for a moment, consistent motion is what releases the starches.
- The Wave (All’onda): When finished, the risotto should have a thin layer of creamy liquid; it should be moist and flowing, not stiff or dry. Italians call this all’onda, meaning “on the wave.”
- Final Touch: Finish the dish by stirring in an extra knob of butter and plenty of freshly grated Parmesan cheese for ultimate creaminess.
Key Takeaways: Selecting the Best Rice for Risotto
- The Arborio Myth: While Arborio is the most famous, it is often considered inferior to other varieties because it breaks down more easily and consequently becomes “mushy.”
- The Superior Choice: Carnaroli is widely regarded by chefs as the “king of Italian rices” because it holds its shape better and has a higher starch content for a creamier result.
- Texture Matters: Furthermore, rices like Vialone Nano absorb flavors incredibly well and provide a silky texture that Arborio often struggles to match.
- Mise en Place Connection: No matter which rice you choose, having your warm stock and aromatics ready via mise en place is critical for timing the starch release.
💡 Pro-Tip: Identifying Grains by the “Pearl”
If you have a bag of Arborio and Carnaroli side-by-side, you can actually see why they behave differently. Look closely at a raw grain:
- The Shape: Arborio is short, fat, and almost oval. Carnaroli is slightly longer and more tapered at the ends.
- The “Pearl”: Both have a white, opaque center called a “pearl”. However, in Carnaroli, the pearl is denser and more robust. This structural difference is exactly why Carnaroli maintains its al dente bite while Arborio tends to soften and lose its shape during the stirring process.
- The Dusting: High-quality Carnaroli often appears slightly “dustier” because of its high exterior starch content—the very thing that creates that coveted all’onda (“on the wave”) creaminess in your finished dish.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is Arborio rice so popular if it isn’t the best rice for risotto?
Arborio became known as the best rice for risotto because it was the first high-starch Italian rice to be exported widely. While it makes a decent risotto, specialty varieties like Carnaroli offer more structural integrity and a better mouthfeel.
What makes Carnaroli rice different from Arborio?
Carnaroli has a larger grain and a higher amylose (starch) content. This allows it to withstand the constant stirring required for risotto without falling apart, resulting in a perfectly al dente core and a rich, creamy exterior.
Is it worth paying more for specialty risotto rice?
Yes. Using a premium rice like Carnaroli or Vialone Nano significantly reduces the risk of overcooking your dish. For a home cook, this extra insurance often makes the difference between a sticky mess and a restaurant-quality meal.
Can I use regular long-grain rice for risotto?
No. Long-grain rices (like Jasmine or Basmati) lack the specific surface starch necessary to create the signature creamy sauce that defines a true risotto.
Can you substitute Arborio for Carnaroli?
Yes, you can substitute Arborio for Carnaroli, but you must be much more vigilant about the cooking time. Because Arborio breaks down faster, you should begin checking for doneness several minutes earlier to prevent the rice from becoming mushy.
How long does it take to cook Carnaroli rice compared to Arborio?
Generally, Carnaroli takes slightly longer to cook than Arborio—usually between 18 and 22 minutes. While Arborio may seem done after 15 or 16 minutes, it often lacks the structural integrity that Carnaroli maintains throughout the longer stirring process.
What is the “pearl” in risotto rice?
The pearl is the opaque, white center of the rice grain that contains a high concentration of amylose starch. It is responsible for providing the al dente bite, while the outer translucent layer provides the creamy texture.
